Monthly Archive for December, 2008

Dec
31

Cape Town it is…

We arrived in Cape Town on the 28th December in the evening. We had to change at Jo’Burg from Maputo and the Flight was a good experience for the squeamish!
Sitting on the runway at Maputo, just about to take off, the pilot suddenly spins the plane around 180 and gets off the runway, back to where we boarded the plane. After a few seconds the Pilot announces that although we had been cleared for take off, which we were just about to do, he was suddenly told to abort take off and get off the runway sharpish as another flight had been cleared to land! Really, only in Africa!
Sure enough 2 minutes later the other plane came in to land.
5 minutes later we were back on the runway preparing for take off, but all I could think about was what else could possibly happen next? Had they forgotten about another plane that had been cleared to land? Really brimming with confidence by now!
Fortunately we took off fine but I couldn’t help but nervously look out the window for the rest of the flight.

Anyway we made it in the end, and when we arrived at our Apartment (Nice one Gavin!) right in town in the CBD (Central Business district) all was quickly forgotten! The air-con was on, the fridge had some cold ones in and we stood on the balcony looking out at Cape Town below*

There seems to constantly be some kind of street festival going on down our street (Adderley St). There was a food festival when we arrived, which was very welcome, and tonight there is the Malay procession with 77 different choirs!
It starts at 11pm and ends at 6am, so no sleep tonight but it should be a corker of a New Years!

*OK bit of artistic license with the view, but you can see a bit of the table top mountain in the corner!

Published
by
lion
on Dec 31 2008
in Cape town and South Africa
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Dec
24

Christmas Eve Pt. 2: The 2nd African wedding

So, we make it back to Fatima’s and I go straight to the bar and order a beer [Laurentina Clara, 5% - comment for you Gerry!]. It’s been a strange morning so far what with the weather and all so we both decide to chill for a bit. Anyway at the bar I’m getting some strange looks from the bar/reception girl, who it turns out didnt recognise me from the shave and haircut! Fair enough, but the “oh my god, oh my god, you look so different, so young!” was a bit OTT!!
I didnt realise a beard could make you look so different?!

We’re suddenly kicked into action around 4pm as we remember we have the wedding to get to so we have to get moving. Carla picks us up around 430(ish!) and we just make it in time for the registra. Bride and Groom both looked amazing and after this it was back off to Jardin dos Namorados (The Gardens of Girl/Boyfriends) to take the photos. When we can we’ll upload some photos as there’s some lovely shots. Ater this we went to have the reception.

What I like about African weddings, and this one in particular, is that they cut out all the heavy speeches that, lets face it, no one really likes (do they??) and just get on with the food, music and dancing! And there was plenty of all of that!!! There were some serious moves going down so I was keeping myself on the peripary, not wanting to show them all up (ahem), and kept to the sampling until I just couldnt hold back anymore (OK I was physically dragged onto the dance floor by Carla!) but hey I reckon I held my own (a few photos to prove it will appear later!).

This party went on way into the night and when it was time to go, there was a rush for any leftovers etc, and we all jumped into Carlas car for a welcome lift home. We soon had to jump back out as the damn thing wouldnt start and we had to push it down the hill! This incidently turned out to be the only way to start the car for the rest of our stay, but more about that later!

So a BIG thanks to Nuno and Chloe for inviting us to their special day, we wish you all the best and hope to see you in old blighty when we return!

Published
by
lion
on Dec 24 2008
in Mozambique
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Dec
24

Cristmas Eve

This turned into a very long and very special day. It had’nt felt like christmas at all in Mozambique up until Christmas eve. It was another scorchingly hot day. Very still with no sign of a breeze. We were again sweating before we had left the backpackers (Fatimas at 1317 Av. Mao Tse Tung, recommended!). Sandra wanted to get her legs waxed and me, well, I really needed to see the barber! We had finished by midday and by the time we got outside an almighty wind had picked up from semingly nowhere and caught everyone by surprise. Everyone was being blown in all directions! The hawkers were chasing their wares down the road, carried off by the wind.

It was strange. Beforehand most people seemed to be fatigued by the heat, all hot and bothered but now there was a renewed energy, everyone was smiling and talking to each other. Ok talking about the weather but…!

We decided to dive into a nearby cafe, Nauticals, and took shelter from the sudden storm. Inside there were rows of tables with some amazing cakes of all shapes and sizes. All special Christmas cakes notably “bolo Rei”.

We sat in this cafe for the best part of an hour taking in the busy Christmas Eve custom. It turned out Nauticals is the place to go for your cakes. Not just pastries etc but for any Festive holiday this is where you come. It was fantastic to sit in the background and take in the scene, from both inside the cafe and out.

By the time we were done, we were both fully chilled, ready to brave the storm outside which had calmed a bit by now and fully prepared to start getting ready for our second African wedding, that of Nuno and Chloe… more to follow later!

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by
lion
on Dec 24 2008
in Mozambique
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Dec
24

Ao Vivo no Gil Vicente

If you happen to make it to Maputo one day, make sure you call in at Gil Vicente, a live music venue. This was our second time there and it was a live Karaoke night!
We had met up with Lizette, Sandras friend, earlier in the day and she was going there later that evening so we decided to tag along.

There’s a really happy vibe at Gill Vicente and the Karaoke was a mixture between the really serious (you know the type)  and the really could’nt care its my song and I’m going to sing it!

After about and hour something really special happened, there was the obligatory power cut! But there was no way this act was stopping… The drummers kept going and the dude kept singing, this time with the whole audience!!
When the song reached the chorus it was like 100 voices singing in the distance, it created a really special atmosphere. After the song the drummer kept on, joined by a young guy, Sofixo, who earlier had song some wonderful soulful songs with a voice and presence that belied his early years. These guys kept on for around 40 minutes, basically until the power came back on and for me, summed up the Live at Gil Vicente experience!

Published
by
lion
on Dec 24 2008
in Mozambique
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Dec
21

internet cafes are few and far between!

Thats not to say we havent found any, its just they havent been the best. There are also frequent powercuts that don’t help. This is mainly in the smaller places such as Maxixe, Inhambane and Vilankulos. So needless to say we’ve found it hard to update the ‘blog’!
Hope all’s well with you and below is a brief summary of the trip so far…

Published
by
lion
on Dec 21 2008
in Uncategorized
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Dec
12

Maxixe to Vilankulos (AKA: A chapa ride from hell pt 2)

Because one is never enough, we took another chapa ride this time to Vilankulos, around 350km north of Maxixe along the coast. Again we got the chapa nice and early and again we had to wait for it to fill up. For some reason we always manage to sit right at the back, I’m not sure if this is by design? But if you think about it health and safety would have a field day! Actually, its best not to think about it. I did, and for a while I was sweating profusely and felt a strong desire to get off the chapa immediately…

So the best advice is, if you find yourself in one of these things, just don’t think of the danger youve put yourself in. Relax, smile and think of happy things and you’ll be at your final destination before you know it!

We made it to Vilankulos around midday, which was good going. Most of the journey was on one very long, straight, pot holed road. There were more holes than road.
We went straight to the beach, took in the light refreshing breeze from the Indian ocean and when we had got the last of the potholes out of our systems we went to find a  place to stay. We stumbled across a place called “Zombie Cucumber” which enticed us in. Its a backpackers that has both dorms and rooms. Its well maintained and has some very nice, welcoming staff. It turned out to be a lovely find and one we would definitely recommend. We had every intention of getting a Dhow boat (small sail boat) to Bazzaruto Island and do some snorkling but it wasnt to be. First Sandra got sick, then 2 days later when she was better I had a terrble bout of my old friend Mr D I Arreah, a nasty chap!

So that put paid to us visiting any of the Islands which are part of the Bazaruto Archipelego, and to be honest, these are why you would travel to Vilankulos - to see the islands and do some diving and snorkling.

Still we had a great time (bar the sickness) and basically chilled in a hammock or by the pool for about 5 days. When we were there, there was a lovely group of people from England, Spain and Canada, and of course there were a couple of South Africans too!

We were lucky yo meet a Dutch couple, Frank and Larissa who were at the end of their ’round the world’ trip and we grilled them for lots of tips and tricks of which they were only too happy to supply. So, thanks guys and we hope to meet again someday to exchange some more stories and photos!

NB: Frank and Larissa, if youre out there we have been unable to access your blog. Maybe we have the address wrong? www.frankenlarissa.waarbenjy.nu ??

Published
by
lion
on Dec 12 2008
in Mozambique
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Dec
07

A chapa ride from hell…

We got up early with the main plan to travel to inhambane for a few days. As luck would have it we were very kindly offered a place to stay in Maxixe (pronounced Masheeshe), which is very near inhambane.

Carla picked us up early to take us to the bus. It actually turned out that the way to get there is by Chapa (basically a mini bus) and not a bus or coach as I had imagined. Still 4 hours shouldnt be too bad, and I’ve taken 2 immodium to be on the safe side.

We get on the Chapa at 8:10am and we quickly see how it all works. They don’t leave until they are full, and then some! One thing I’ve noticed here is that they sure can pack a hell of a lot into a small space, be that space in a bag, on a bike or in this case, a Chapa!
We eventually leave at 9am and the full Chapa experience begins!

I lost count of the amount of times we stopped at the side for Mangoes, drinks or poultry… yep thats right - they buy live chickens, fresh as! and just carry them by the feet, which are tied. I almost feel sorry for the poor things, and yet despite their unavoidable fate and what with being carried upside down in a cramped, hot and sweaty Chapa they moan way less myself and Sandra!

With hindsight you could say this was inevitable but with around a further 100km to go, the inner back wheel came off! What a noise!! I thought the guy in front was a gonner for sure. Luckily they had a spare and took just 30mins to get us back on the road. All aiding the ‘Full Chapa’ experience!

From here on in, whenever they can, they stop to squeeze more people in. At one stage there was something like 30 people in the back, admittedly these people don’t travel far, maybe 10/20km down the road but it sure was cramped in there.

We eventually roll into Maxixe around 5pm, a bit later than the stated 3-4hours but all things considered, it wasnt bad going just very cramped and hey, WE MADE IT!!!

NB: Actual date is 7th Dec 2008

Published
by
lion
on Dec 7 2008
in Mozambique
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Dec
06

The day after the wedding before

Well we took it easy in the morning. Unfortunately I picked up a dose of diarreah. I’m pretty sure it was the last rissois that did it. Top tip for everyone - Never eat prawns late at night, especially ones that have been sitting outside in the hot sun all day! Carla, Sandra’s sister, suffered the same horrible fate. She came to pick us up to take us to the ‘celebration after the wedding‘ and we were able to swap the same horrid details! Thankfully Sandra’s colleagues had given her some immodium as a leaving present, with hindsight the best present they could have given! So we were both able to put on a brave face and get on down to some more dancing and a singing and another buffet meal!

In the evening Carla took us to meet her cousin, Nuno, who is back in Mozambique for a few months to get married to his English fiance, Chloe. A lovely couple and we managed to get ourselves invited to another wedding! - their’s on the 24th Dec… better get the suit dry cleaned.

NB: Actual date is the 6th Dec 2008

Published
by
lion
on Dec 6 2008
in Africa and Mozambique
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Dec
05

The wedding of Alda and Edson

Ok this is mainly why we came to Mozambique first, for the wedding of Sandra’s cousin, Alda.
It was a very hot day, way too hot to be wearing a suit but hey, needs must. I was sweating by the time we arrived at the church, 15 minutes late and mainly due to the taxi driver not actually knowing where the church was. When we eventually arrived, It turned out that he ‘did’ know where it was but because we didnt say where the church was near he couldnt find it - T.I.A!!!

The Church ceremony was mainly the usual stuff until after the announcement of ‘man and wife’ - then everybody starts dancing and a singing! (this happens a lot over here, any excuse!!). Then it was all aboard a bus and off to the Registra where there was another ceremony, followed by more dancing and a singing!

I was really sweating now, out in the midday sun, in a suit, dancing and a singing!!
Sandra seemed fine in a lovely light floral number, as did Alda who looked stunning.

After this we all went to a lovely park/gardens for some photos, and the fresh air and light breeze were most welcome. Now onto the bit we’d been looking forward to since the start, the buffet reception!
We had both unfortunately missed breafast in the hotel. Me through sheer laziness and Sandra because she had to leave early to get her hair done. So we were absolutely starving by this time.

The reception was in a marque and it was basically a help yourself buffet. We had to wait before  we could dive in though - of course, there had to be more dancing and a singing first! The Bride and Groom made their entrance to some traditional music. It was a really lively upbeat tune played out on what can be described as an oversized xylaphone (thats the wooden one right? I must find out what it was called…) accompanied by some bongos. Then, after a few speeches, we were able to tuck in to some lovely food!!!

The rest was of the evening was filled with plenty of drink, music and dancing. All in all a very good day, albeit a very long one! We’ll upload some photos when we get a chance, probably not until Cape Town now.

NB: Actual date of wedding was the 5th Dec 2008

Published
by
lion
on Dec 5 2008
in Mozambique
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Dec
05

Sampling so far

So far I’ve had 4 different types of East African beers.
The first was had on the plane over and is called Tusker, which comes in at 4.2% and is quite malty. It was the first beer to be brewed in East Africa and is named after the Elephant that killed one of the founders. That’s respect for you! I prompty had my second one soon afterwards!
The second type of beer was had in Maputo in a place called mundos. The beer was called “Laurantina“, which is around 5%. This one is brewed in Mozambique. It seems to be their standard lager and the best thing for me was THEY SERVE PINTS! You don’t have to ask for a “BIG beer please” or “Cerveja grande por favor” Oh no, they bring you a pint as standard.
I’m going to be getting on very well here I can just feel it!
Laurantina also comes in a “Preta” version - which is just like a stout really, very nice but not to be drunk all night. I’ve been informed that both types of Laurantina are No. 1 beers in Belgium?? But this is the first time I’ve set eyes on it…
The last beer is called “2M“, it comes in at just over 4% and is another lager.
Hang on did I say 4 beers, I meant 5!
How could I forget “Mantica” which comes in at 4.5% and was quite a pleasant lager, I’m sure we’ll be aquainted again soon enough. Maybe at the wedding later today?!

Published
by
lion
on Dec 5 2008
in Mozambique
. 0 Comments