Monthly Archive for January, 2009

Keurbooms, Archrock, rocks!

After a few days chilling in PE, Willem had arranged for us all to stay in a place called Keurbooms at Archrock chalet & caravan park. All we knew about the place was that it’s near Plettenburg Bay which we had past on the way up to PE. It turned out to delightful! We were booked into one of the Log Cabins while Willem and entourage (Melisa and her family) were booked into 2 adjacent “Luxury chalets”, and that’s exactly what they were!

The beach was straight in front of us and literally a 5 minute walk to paddle in the sea, which was freezing by the way. I thought that being the Indian Ocean it would have warmed up a bit but this turned out to be the main point the Atlantic and Indian Oceans collide so it made for a very cold and raging surf. To be fair our time here was abnormally windy for the time of year. It was breath taking though and very refreshing to just sit and watch the waves from a quiet sandy bay, safe with the knowledge that a Braai had begun back at the chalets by Willhelm (Willems best man) and his Dad, Veppy!

After another fantastic chicken Braai, we guzzled some delicious wines from Bayerskloof (Pinotage) and some Leaping Leopard (Cabernet Sauvignon) - both fantastic. Mind you all the wines we’ve sampled in South Africa have been exceptionally good - and very reasonably priced!

The next day Willem, Melisa and her family (AKA The Venezualans from here on in!) were up for an early start (630AM) to have breakfast with some Cheetahs, lunch with some Monkeys at Monkey Land before getting friendly with some Elephants in the afternoon. In light of the late night before, and the quantities of wine/beer guzzled, myself and Sandra decided to spend the morning relaxing at the cabin/beach. Please note though that we do intend to do a Safari when in Kenya so we werent just being lazy!

When everyone got back it sounded like they all had an amzing time and they actually got to ride on the Elephants, but boy did they look knackered!
So rejuventated by our relaxing day we both helped prepare the evenings Braai, this time a fish one. Some of the fish were caught by Willem and Willhelm at the W/E. They went on a kind of ‘Stag’ fishing weekend that sadly I had just missed out on. The fish was amazing. Nothing like fresh fish cooked on a Braai. Again the wine and beer were flowing all to a back drop waves and the Braai cooking.

Later we took a stroll along the beach and stared up at the Milkyway - what a way to end another fantastic day!

 

Cape Town to Port Elizabeth

We left Cape Town on Sat 17th Jan and started our trek to Port Elizabeth (PE). We both love driving around in SA (should that be ZA?), the roads are easy to navigate and all the other road users are chilled. We’ve both seen some real dodgy manoeuvre’s yet no apparent road rage, just smiles all round! Hopefully we can take this back home with us and spread the love, though I doubt it. I’d give us both 5 mins back on a London rd before the bubble bursts!

We jumped on the N2 in Cape Town which takes you all the way to PE along the much lauded Garden Route. The N2 is just a big dual carriageway really and the view wasnt entirely inspiring. That is until you get past Mossel Bay, then WOW the scenery explodes into life and we both saw why it’s called the Garden Route!

The N2 winds it’s way through some spectacular mountain passes that follow the coast line. This in turn is littered with some beautiful beaches and bays. The only thing that spoils it is it’s impossible to explore them all. After around 400km we stopped off in a town called knysna and checked into the Island Vibe backpackers. Knysna was quite a sleepy little town, but this being a Saturday night and the backpackers being billed as ‘located in the thick of the action’ we thought we’d sample a few bars before dinner. Unfortunately the season ended last week and the town was having a break before it all kicks off again next week - typical!  Not to worry though, we made do with a drink (or 2!) at ‘Harry’s bar’ along with our first rack of ribs ZA style! We got a lovely nights rest before resuming our journey to PE.

From here on in it was a pleasure to drive. Again the scenery didnt disappoint and we made a few detours to check out Natures Valley, and some of Tsitsikamma nature reserve (”The Garden of the Garden Route“). A simply stunning drive. We finally made it into PE and arrived at Willem’s house around 3:30pm. Willem’s a mate I was working with in London and who’s wedding we’ll be going to on Friday
It wasnt long before ‘Sacky’, Willem’s dad, got the Braai started and we spent the afternoon chillaxing with some cold one’s by the pool - PE rocks!!

 

Penguins on the beach

We finally hired a car. We wanted a ‘Chico’ as we heard so much about them, and not knowing what it was we were intrigued. We found out a ‘Chico’ is just like a Volkswagen Golf, the old version from the 80’s, without the Power steering, air-con and radio we all take for granted. So we were a little disappointed to find that Hertz ‘upgraded’ us to a tiny Hyundai. It reminded me of a smaller version of Postman Pats car!
After the initial shock and disappointment (really fancied bombing around SA in a ‘Chico!) we got going and felt the benefit of the air-con and power steering.

First stop was a very scenic drive down to Simons Town. We headed for “Boulders Beach” where they have Penguins. This was the real attraction, but when we rocked up to the main beach we couldn’t see any? After a while we turned around and were just about to leave and make our way down to Cape Point when we saw a big sign that read “Penguins, this way”! We followed the signs and excitedly picked up our pace. We were a little disappointed to find the Penguins all resided in an enclosed section of the beach (this is Boulders Beach!) and you had to pay to get in - on reflection I really don’t know what we were expecting and it was only 30 Rand, which is just over 2GBP! But gone were Sandra’s dreams of swimming with the Penguins and rubbing their bellies!! (I don’t know, only Sandra!)

It was well worth it though. Not only to see Penguins on the beach, which is still pretty weird, but to see them living free in their own environment. It’s never the same in a zoo and unless you make it down to the Antarctic you probably wouldn’t get the chance to see these amazing creatures! So, a thousand photos later we decided to say goodbye to our new friends and make our way down to Cape Point.

This was another fantastic scenic drive. The closer we got the more winding the cliff top drive became. The more exhilarating it felt. At some points you could see the sea on both sides of the land. Suddenly Baboons appeared from everywhere and nowhere! A mother with it’s baby on her back was casually sitting in the road. At the sides of the road they were everywhere just sitting around staring at us tourists. People had told us about the Baboons, but I hadn’t really taken it in. Baboons! We quickly made sure the doors and windows were locked and hoped the boot was too. (tourists!).

The day before were told stories of tourists having their lunches nicked from out of their hands by these Baboons, so we weren’t taking any chances. We parked up as close as we could to Cape Point, checked the doors and windows again, then got the packed lunch out!

We made the trek up to the Cape Point Lighthouse and just stared out at sea into the misty blue void. It felt so peaceful. Remembering stories of treacherous seas and ship wrecks seemed to be a lie until every now and then the wind really picked up and you automatically held on to the closest thing to you.

Next we went to “The Cape of Good hope” which is a 5 minute drive from The Point. We passed loads of surfers doing their thing, mainly wind surfers. The waves were really big along this stretch and it was pretty windy too. Again there were loads of Baboons in the roads and on the sides of the road. One Baboon was in the back of a surfers truck helping himself to his lunch! We watched him down some orange juice, casually throw the now empty bottle over his shoulder while simultaneously help himself to a large 5 litre bottle of water! Pretty funny stuff to watch but you seriously wouldn’t want to mess with these dudes, and as it turned out we weren’t being too cautious with our lunch earlier!! Can’t wait to pop some Photos of these up…

Anyway The Cape of Good Hope is the most south westerly point in South Africa and like Cape Point felt kind of wondrous to be here. I’ve stared at these places on maps for years wondering what was there and now being here they didnt dissapoint. Like most people who were there with us we took the obligatory photo next to the signs and then just stared out to sea. Very refreshing and cleansing for the mind!

After this we took the slow scenic journey back to Cape Town, cracked open a bottle of wine and chilled for the rest of the evening.

 

Marching bands, a Braai and other short stories…

Cape Town has been ‘awesome’ so far. Really really loving it. When we arrived it was pretty much full on with the run up to the New Year celebrations and all, but it has calmed down a bit now.
I mentioned the Malay marching bands before and they sure didn’t disappoint! Our street, Adderley St, is one of the main ones they use for their marches. We only truly realised this when we decided to do a bit of grocery shopping on the 3rd Jan. We left the flat only to find the whole road had been blocked off and the street was jam packed with people camping out for the day. They had tents, camping chairs and the biggest picnics I’ve seen! Then there was us with our ’shop right’ shopping bags on our way to the shops (Shop right as it goes is our nearest supermarket).

Well we had to take a major detour, but at least we actually managed to see the marching bands up close. They’re all dressed in colourful suits, hats and most have umbrellas that they pump in the air in time to the beat. To be honest it all gets quite repetitive after a while and we found out later that all the bands are made up of the old gangster families and this is their way of showing each other they’re still around (Haven’t verified it, but for story purposes it adds a bit of spice!* - truth updated below*)

Not only are we staying at a really nice apartment right in town but we’ve managed to hook up with some friends as well. Pete (my brother in laws mate) has helped us no end. Given us loads of information and taken us to places only a local would know, including the smallest pub in Africa, out near Hout Bay if you ever get the chance!
He put on a really cool Braai (bbq) for us the other day and we stuffed ourselves silly! Can’t wait for the next one!!

We’re getting ready to head off to Cape point and Simons town, as soon as we hire a car. Now Simons town is where they have Penguins on the beach… Penguins on the beach! Sounds kind of strange!

*Update on the Marchng bands:
We found out from the Bo Kaap museum (museum about the muslim community in the Bo Kaap area in Cape Town) that the Marching bands were started by the slaves and traditionally occurred on the 2nd January each year, this being the only holiday granted by law to the slaves. So they got together danced and sang their way throughout Cape Town, all day and night. I’m glad we found this out as it gives it way more meaning and symbolism.