Monthly Archive for February, 2009

Langkawi for a few days

We took a short taxi ride from the hotel and just missed the ferry. It was one of those situations where you could actually see the ferry pulling out of the port! Not to worry though, at least we could relax and get a decent breakfast while waiting until 1:30pm for the next one, which we were certain not to miss!

Landing at Langkawi after immigration you are confronted by loads of taxi drivers and guides asking you a thousand questions about “where you’re staying”, “what your plans” are and how you should “do some Island hopping” … I mean, we’ve just landed on this one!
As always we tell them we’re fine and are all booked up with both a lift and a hotel, which of course is a lie but we hate being rushed into accepting a taxi, hotel or tour without sussing out the scene first. So we just got some coffee and cakes and sat down at a table and watched the port clear of our fellow travellers while going through our guide book and planning our next move.

Finally we decided to go to Cenang beach and find a place to stay. We were told it was “low season” so werent too worried about finding anywhere “cheap” to stay. The first place we tried (the Melati Motel) was a little expensive at 75Ringgits (15GBP) so we went off to find something a little cheaper. We were a little dismayed to find the next two places we tried had no rooms available! The horror!! We started to feel the incessant heat and the sweat started to pour down as we soon found out it was still in “High season”! 
After trying several more places we eventually went back to the first place, The Melati Motel,and booked up for the night on the agreement that they moved us into a beach fronted appartment in the morning. I’m sure they could sense our desperation!

Settled in, we took a stroll (more relaxed now!) and explored the beach, some places to eat and some bars. I was particularly looking forward to sampling the very cheap beer on offer, until I found out that it was mainly Carlsberg, skol (strange choice!), Heineken or tins of Tiger - I guess you can’t have everything,  I was being spoiled in Thailand with the lovely cold Singha! Still at 2Ringgits a pop you can’t really argue!

The next day we moved on to a different place to stay, mainly as the Melati Motel upped the price for the beach apartment overnight to 100 Ringgits. Eventually we found a lovely Motel on the much quieter Tenang beach15 minutes walk away. And not only cheaper at 59 Ringgits but a hell of a lot cleaner, with a power shower and proper western style toilets! How you miss the simple things in life - if youve ever been forced to use the Asian style squat toilets you’ll be nodding along with me now!

Again settled in, we explored our new surroundings. The beach was much closer and it was all less touristy with more local foodhalls at the prices we like!
We were about to take a dip in the sea, whch was lovelly and warm, when a lady just got stung by a Jelly fish. Her calf was covered in red and white spots that looked a lot like our mozzie bites only bigger and very painful! So we backed away from the sea and took a stroll instead, looking at all the Jelly fish. There were loads of them everywhere, some huge but most about the size of a melon. Lovely beach but the Jelly fish spoiled it a bit.

Next we went to hire a scooter but unfortunately being too honest with our lack of experience they wouldnt let us have one  so we hired a car instead and took off to the other side of the Island to check out the Bat cave. It turned out that you couldnt just go to see the bat cave you had to take a two hour tour that included The Bat Cave, a  floating fish farm, a Crocodile cave, Eagle feeding and a short trip out on the open sea.

Out of all of it the Eagle feeding was the best. The boat man threw in some chicken skins, twirled them around with the out board motor then sat back and watched as around 50 Eagles started swooping down for the chicken skins. It really was amazing to see so many of these birds having a good feed.

The worst bit of the tour was the Crocodile cave. It wasnt until we were through the cave, which in itself was only about 20yards long, and after several questions from Sandra about “wheres the crocs..?” that the boat man revealed there werent actually any crocodiles in or near the cave. In fact, there never has been! I wish I had taken a photo of Sandras face!!

Later we were talking to some other tour guides and they suggested we take a boat tour to see the Bat caves etc… when they mentioned the Crocodile cave we had a lengthy discussion, instigated by Sandra, about why, if theres no Crocodiles, is it called “Crocodile Cave” - we still don’t know!  

Next up we went to see some waterfalls. Apart from not much water flowing down, these were both pretty good. Mainly for the much needed exercise. We had to walk up a very steep set of steps, which after a few months of doing minimal exercise we thoroughly enjoyed! At the top there was a lovely refreshing pool where we were able to have a dip. We then took another climb up to The Seven Wells. I think this was the top of the waterfall? The climb was longer and steeper than the first one but we relished feeling ‘the burn’ as we passed a group of Italians on the way up, they were doing more talking than walking ;)

At the top there were indeed 7 wells and we had another dip. The water was colder and more refreshing. Much needed after the climb up. Suddenly we saw loads of monkeys coming towards us. They looked quite small and cute and where gray in colour but I’ve got to say it, we were a tad scared! We decided the best tactic would be to ignore them and try and concentrate on the view. Where were those Italians?? I half turned my head expecting to see the monkeys right behind us but they had jumped into the bins by the side and were just looking for food. Or maybe they just wanted to play with the tin cans they threw out of the bin, anyway the main thing was they werent going to pick on us! Suddenly they all scurried off into the trees as the Italians had made it up to the top. Phew, we relaxed and tried to act cool, still having a dip in the pool! On reflection It was a shame we didnt watch the monkeys more but hey we’re just stoopid tourists and still very green with free range mammals!

On the way back down we noticed the monkeys again and this time we tried to be less frightened. It was quite amazing to see how many monkeys there were. At the top there had been just around 5 of them but now we could see them in every tree and a lot more were on the ground walking to the edge of the palf we were on. Back at the bottom we spotted two monkeys sitting calmly in a tree when all of a sudden one of them atacked the other and for the next few minutes they were jumping from branch to branch and tree to tree chasing each other. It looked quite viscious, but not knowing much about the monkey world they could have been playing? It was very cool though to see them jump across the palf we were on, they were very close to our heads and we were covered in falling leaves and branches a they dissappeared into the woods.

On the drive back we found a lovely place to eat. Very nice noodles again, with fried squid, all very very fresh! One thing’s for sure we’ll never go hungry on this trip! Thus ended a nice tour of Langkawi. We’re off to Kuala Lumpur in the morning.

 

Langkawi in the morning

Ko Samui was Ok. Two nights was about right for us. It had a lovely beach (Changwei) but was all very touristy (Loads of Germans, and I mean lots of them - but thats no bad thing!!) and it was really built up. Quite expensive restaurants with loads of tailors trying to sell you a suit and the usual knocked off gear. We were staying a good 15minute walk in land of the beach at Nids Bungalows. These were very nice actually and we couldnt argue with the price, 450 baht per night which is around 8 GBP! but there wasnt much else to do there.

So we’ve left the island and had a long days travelling by ferry(1.5hours), bus (1.5hours) then mini bus (5hours, and for avid readers that’s another CHAPA/MATATU!!!) followed by 2 hours on a local bus before ending up in Satun (pronounced Storn) for the night with the idea to get a ferry in the morning to Langkawi, another island but in Malaysia. Sandras been before and it sounds lovely. It’ll be interesting to see how it’s changed as she was there 6 years ago. Hopefully it’s as nice as she remembers, and if so, We’re hoping to spend a bit of time relaxing there as we’ve been doing a lot of travelling recently and it would be nice to stay still for a few days.

On another note we’ve hunted down the “live for a king on under $10 a day” myth and its true! we have truly found how to eat well and for cheap, cheap prices. You have to watch where the locals eat and go there. Get rid of the western ideals of sitting down inside a restaurant and stop by the roadside or under that corrigated iron shack, sit sown and order what you like. In our case, anything with fried noodle seems to work a treat and you get delivered a freshly cooked fantastically tasty meal. I think we’ve got it down now and have been having top tasty meals for around 1GBP for the two of us - finally LIVING THE DREAM!!!

When we touched down in Satun we were left on a main busy road. We saw the first hotel and dived in. we were given a key and told to view the room so we proceeded up 3 flights of stairs, very steep stairs actually and the whole hotel felt more like an estate with locals lurking around between floors. We werent feeling good about the place. Sandra need the toliet badly so we had already decided that we’d just use the loos then leave. We quickly tried to open the door. To our dismay I turned the key only to find I twisted it off in the lock - the damn thing had melted! In horror we bolted down the stairs and tried to explain to the Lady that the key had broken and all she could say was “You pay for damage”! Jeez, I’m telling you a vein appeared on my temple as I (with a smile, remembering the guide book advice!) hastily showed her the key up close and explained theres no way any human could have done this to a key! I swear the thing looked as if it had been melted off! We left her holding the thing and shot off down the road. I think someone was smiling on us as we found a lovely restaurant (local!) and had a drink and some food. The lady there showed us a nice hotel around the corner and all was good. 200 baht (4GBP) for the night with easy access to get the ferry tomorrow morning, I think we’ll both sleep well tonight! Till next time…

 

Its off to Ko Samui

We just can’t sit still, and its not because of all the mozzie bites. We’re off to Ko Samui an Island off the south east coast of Thailand. We’re told many backpackers turn their noses up at it for it’s westernisation and its many home comforts (please be good clean toilets and a good shower???) but  hey we’re no snobs.  Its a long journey by overnight coach and then about an hour on a ferry so we’re hoping it’ll all be worth it! Can’t wait to pull up in a hammock, get a good book and just chill on the beach for a few days! It surely is a hard life this travelling lark…

 

Sawadi from Bangkok!

We only landed in Bangkok yesterday at midday but we already love this place! It’s the friendliest place we’ve been to so far. People are so polite and the place is buzzing and so vibrant. We are staying at The Atlanta hotel, off the Sookumvit road (phoentically spelt) and we both love it! It’s got a 20’s-30’s feel with an amazing foyet and has a lovely cafe/restaurant which has both a traditional Thai menu alomgside a more westernised one. Music to match (Big band , 20’s/30’s etc…) plays quietly throughout the foyet/restaurant areas and to be honest it’s just a pleasure to stay at. I’m just smiling as I sip my Singha beer (5%)!

Today we took a stroll to two shopping centres, one for clothes (Platinum Plaza) and one for computers (Pantim Plaza). It was a lovely stroll that took us through a varied range of Thai life and some very busy roads that to cross takes a bit of cunning and nerve. Thankfully we were blooded-in in Nairobi so it didnt take us long to figure out.  I’ve never seen any bigger malls. Five floors all massive. We thought we had been around the first floor but when we turned the corner it was like staring into an endless vortex, my head was spinning! We had only been around one half of the first floor.

After the clothes mall we stopped for a bite and some tea (Sandra was gagging for a Green tea!). We went into a restaurant attached to the mall but the food was very good, and turned out to be very reasonable. We then had the first “leaf” tea of our travels so far, Sandra just loves her leaf tea - mainly green tea but to Sandras dissapointment we havent found any so far. Then we found out why, they do Oolong tea in Thailand not green! Still Oolong is very nice and refreshing, well recommended. This gave us the strength to tackle the computer mall, strangely it didnt look as intimidating as the clothes mall, but that could have just been my perception. We were looking for something to backup all our photos but saw a very small laptop for better value that we might go back for. (The plan now is to go to Singapore for a few days, so we’re going to “compare” prices!) We jumped in a Tuk-tuk to take us back to the hotel and had our first ride in one of these contaptions. I think I prefer them to Chapas and Matatus though!

We’re now taking it easy listeneing to the big band music of The Atlanta while planning our day tomorrow. Maybe some Thai boxing?? It’s Valentines day-   who said romance was dead?!

 

Jambo from Kenya!

Well we’ve made it to Kenya. We’ve been staying in Nairobi at the Milimani Backpackers. Its very basic but is clean and has all you need, plus it’s very sociable and friendly! It’s been very hard to use the internet here. There is access it’s just so sloooooow, unbearably so.

So a lot has happened since SA and  we’ll will update with all the antics from Willem & Melisas wedding when we can - there’s some great photos wiating to be uploaded. Sadly we were let down with our laptop delivery in Nairobi so we’ll have to wait until we get to Thailand where we hope to pick up a reasonably priced one.

We’ve just got back from a 4 day Safari in the Masai Mara and Lake Nakura. It was roughly a 5/6 hour journey from Nairobi in a Matatu. A Matatu incidently is exactly the same as the Chapas in Mozambique - we just can’t escape them! But this one was slightly modified for the safari with a roof that can open up so we can all stand up, stick our heads out and gawp at all the animals!

We saw Lions (some very naughty Lions!), Girafes, Elephants, Limpala, Gazeles, Jakals, Hyienas, Hippos, Crocodiles and much much more… I’ll finsh off another day as the internet cafe is about to close - just had to get an update in in between the Safari and our trip to Mombasa tomorrow. We’re taking the overnight train down, in a first class cabin. You get dinner and breakfast included and from the people we’ve met who’ve been on it, it’s supposed to be great!

Till next time, farewell.

Lionel and Sandra
xxx